Chikankari is a traditional and delicate hand embroidery art form and dates back to the Mughal era in India. This beautiful, classy, delicate, exquisite and ethereal art form is said to have been brought to Lucknow, the land of the Nawabs by Nur Jehan, the wife of Mughal emperor Jahangir in the 17th century. This cherished craft is admired all over the world.
The word ‘’Chikan’’ is derived from the Persian word ‘’chikeen’’ which means creating delicate patterns on a fabric. Chikankari became very popular in India and gained a status of nobility and elegance. The Nawabs of Awadh patronized, promoted and preserved the art form and encouraged skilled artisans to create exquisite chikan garments for the members of the royal court
In early times, embroidery work was done with white cotton thread on fine fabric. Nowadays, coloured polyester threads, golden zari, silver zari and even wool are used to do the chikankari embroidery. Originally chikankari embroidery was done on mul mul cotton and fine muslin cotton. Currently, it is done on many other fine fabrics like cotton, kota, sheer, chiffon, reyon, chanderi, silk, georgette, modal, organza, viscose, voile, etc to keep up with the market trends. In recent times embellishments like mukaish work, pearls, mirrors, sequins and gota patti work are used to add to its beauty.
Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh is famous for chikankari embroidery and is the heart of the chikankari industry. It is usually referred to as Lucknowi Chikankari. It is a handcrafted art form and a lot of time and effort is spent to create these masterpieces. Intricate patterns and floral designs are done on various fabrics for that eye catching look. It consists of 32 different types of stitches. Some popular stitches are murri, jali, tepchi, bakhia and phanda
Chikankari is also called shadow work. Most of the chikankari embroidery is done by women. Production is mainly done in Lucknow and the adjoining districts.
There are 5 steps involved in the process. They are design, engraving, block printing, embroidery and finally washing and finishing. First the fabric is procured after which the design is block printed by karigars. The wooden blocks are dipped in the blue solution to get different floral patterns on the fabric. Next, the embroidery work is done. After the embroidery is completed, washing process is done. Finally the fabric gets starched and ironed (if necessary) and out comes the beautiful chikankari product.
However, the entire process is arduous and time consuming and the minimum time for a chikankari ensemble to be completed is around 15 to 20 days. If the work is more elaborate, it may even take months to complete.
Says Shweta, the owner of a chikankari manufacturing company in Lucknow that there are some challenges that manufacturers face. Firstly, as all the chikankari embroidery is done in nearby villages, getting the work done is quite challenging. Secondly, loss of the fabric and threads due to the negligence of the karigars causes them financial loss. Thirdly, the fabric gets damaged at times and finally, during the rainy season, there are major delays as the fabric cannot be washed and dried easily and causes delay in the work.
Lucknow has been recognized as an exclusive hub of chikankari by the Geographical Indication Registry in December 2008. The elegant motifs, floral designs and abstract geometric shapes reflect the rich cultural heritage of India.
It is so versatile and elegant and chikankari outfits can be worn by men and women both for casual wear and for formal events and religious functions and festivals too. It is a blend of comfort, style and timeless elegance and represents grace and sophistication. It also strikes a right balance between fashion and comfort and can suit any budget.
Chikankari garments are ideal for any season. During the scorching summer season, light cotton chikankari outfits help to beat the heat and stay cool. In winter, georgettes, chiffons, modal and velvet fabrics with chikankari embroidery keep one warm.
With the development of e-commerce, chikankari has reached global platforms. The presence of online platforms has made it easy for artisans to showcase their products to a global audience.
Many fashion designers have drawn inspiration from the age old motifs and have kept this art form alive and thriving. They have also popularized chikankari by making it more appealing to a wider audience. It has also caught on with Bollywood celebrities who have donned chikankari outfits and thereby promoted this art form.
Chikankari is a cherished form of embroidery and a legacy of the Mughal era. The elegance of chikankari continues to enamour people all over the world. This ethereal art form is a unique to India and needs to be nurtured and promoted not only to help out the artisans but also to preserve the rich cultural heritage of India.
Juliana Sridhar is a lawyer and columnist
