In 2001, when traditional handlooms were beginning to fade into oblivion due to the growing popularity for embroidered saris like georgettes and chiffons, Hyderabad-based and self-taught designer Gaurang Shah took it upon himself to revive traditional handloom and bring it back into vogue. He believed in bringing back happiness to the weaver community. Fifteen years hence, he is one of India’s favouritesaree designers.
Jamdani is a variety of woven fabric in cotton which is undoubtedly one of the best varieties of the finest muslin. As the name suggests ‘Dhakai’ it has been one of the most artistic textiles of the Bangladeshi weaver. The DhakaiJamdani fabric is traditionally woven around Dhaka, Bangladesh, and on the brocade loom. Jamdanisarees are as light as feather and symbolise a blend of Mughal patronage with the ancient Hindu traditions. The ancient DhakaiJamdani represents one of the finest forms of weaving that actually originated in Bengal. These DhakaiJamdanisarees are characterised by the finest fabric, intricate designs and light-weightedness.
The silk used in the creation of the Kanjivaramsaree is extremely fine as well as durable and is one of the most popular forms of silk in the state of Tamil Nadu. The bold and bright colours of the sari are an eternal favourite with South Indian women, whose trousseau remains incomplete without this amazing outfit. Kanjivaramsarees of India make use of a combination of numerous coloured threads. Adding to the attraction of the saris is the exquisite and elaborate zari work. The motifs used are heavily based on the Pallava temples, palaces and paintings. However, these days one can see scenes from great epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata, along with the Bhagwad Gita being used as motifs.
KhadiJamdaniSareesFrom Andhra Pradesh
Jamdani, an extra weft technique is used to create patterns across the fabric. Each buti or pattern has to be worked on the loom by hand to create the pattern. The Jamdani technique is done in many ways depending upon the size and repeat of the pattern across a given length. It is a laborious process and is an example of high skill in weaving.
Khadi fabric is woven mostly in KVIC (Khadi Village Industries Commission) institutions located in villages across the country. Yarn is spun by hand and fabric is woven using this yarn on a handloom in these institutions.
From Gaurang’s special Tree Of Life Collection this KhadiJamdanisaree has intricately designed tree motifs spanning the length of the fabric, thereby enhancing its richness and texture.